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Comprehensive Guide to Seafood and River Fish in Guilin, China

Guilin, located in southern China’s Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, is renowned for its stunning karst landscapes, the Li River, and its rich culinary traditions. While Guilin is not a coastal city, its proximity to the Li River and other freshwater sources makes river fish and freshwater seafood a cornerstone of its local cuisine. Below is a detailed guide to help you explore Guilin’s seafood and river fish offerings.

1. Local Specialties and Popular Dishes

Guilin’s cuisine is known for its light, fresh, and slightly spicy flavors, often incorporating local ingredients like river fish, rice noodles, and pickled vegetables. Here are some must-try dishes featuring seafood and river fish:

a. Beer Fish (啤酒鱼, Píjiǔ Yú)

Description: This is Guilin’s most famous fish dish, made with fresh river fish (usually carp or catfish) caught from the Li River. The fish is stir-fried with local beer, garlic, ginger, chili, tomatoes, and green peppers, creating a flavorful and aromatic dish.
Taste: The beer adds a subtle sweetness and depth to the dish, while the spices give it a mild kick.
Where to Try: Yangshuo, a nearby town, is particularly famous for its beer fish.

b. Steamed Li River Fish (清蒸漓江鱼, Qīngzhēng Líjiāng Yú)

Description: A simple yet elegant dish that highlights the freshness of the fish. The fish is steamed with ginger, scallions, soy sauce, and a touch of sesame oil.
Taste: Light and delicate, with the natural sweetness of the fish taking center stage.
Cultural Note: Steaming is a common cooking method in southern China, as it preserves the natural flavors of the ingredients.

c. Sour Fish Soup (酸鱼汤, Suān Yú Tāng)

Description: A tangy and slightly spicy soup made with river fish, pickled vegetables, and chili. This dish is a staple among the Zhuang ethnic minority in the region.
Taste: The sourness comes from fermented pickles, balanced by the umami of the fish and the heat of the chili.

d. Grilled Fish (烤鱼, Kǎo Yú)

Description: Whole fish is marinated with spices, wrapped in banana leaves, and grilled over charcoal. It’s often served with a dipping sauce made from soy sauce, garlic, and chili.
Taste: Smoky, spicy, and savory, with a crispy skin and tender flesh.

e. Snail Dishes (田螺, Tiánluó)

Description: While not fish, river snails are another popular freshwater delicacy in Guilin. They are often stir-fried with chili, garlic, and fermented black beans.
Taste: Chewy and flavorful, with a spicy and umami-rich sauce.

2. Dining Customs in Guilin

Understanding local dining customs can enhance your experience:

Sharing Dishes: Meals in Guilin, as in most of China, are communal. Dishes are placed in the center of the table and shared among diners.
Chopsticks: Chopsticks are the primary utensils. Avoid sticking them upright in your rice, as this resembles incense used in funerals.
Freshness: Freshness is highly valued, especially for fish. Many restaurants have live fish tanks, allowing you to select your fish before it’s cooked.
Tea: Tea is often served with meals, and it’s polite to pour tea for others before yourself.
Spice Levels: Guilin cuisine is mildly spicy compared to Sichuan or Hunan cuisine. If you prefer less spice, you can request “不辣” (bù là), meaning “not spicy.”

3. Recommended Restaurants and Markets

a. Popular Restaurants

Chunji Roasted Goose Restaurant (椿记烧鹅)
- Specialties: Beer fish, roasted goose, and other local dishes.
- Atmosphere: A well-known chain in Guilin with a clean and welcoming environment.
- Price Range: ¥50–¥100 per person.
Lao You Gui (老油桂)
- Specialties: Traditional Guilin dishes, including steamed Li River fish and sour fish soup.
- Atmosphere: A cozy, family-run restaurant with authentic flavors.
- Price Range: ¥40–¥80 per person.
Yangshuo Beer Fish Restaurants
- Location: West Street (西街, Xī Jiē) in Yangshuo.
- Specialties: Beer fish, grilled fish, and other river fish dishes.
- Atmosphere: Casual and lively, with many restaurants offering outdoor seating.
- Price Range: ¥60–¥120 per person.

b. Seafood and Fish Markets

Guilin South City Market (南城菜市, Nánchéng Càishì)
- What to Expect: A bustling market where locals buy fresh fish, seafood, and other ingredients. You can see live fish and even have them cleaned and prepared for you.
- Tip: Visit early in the morning for the freshest catch.
Yangshuo Farmers’ Market
- What to Expect: A smaller market with a focus on local produce and river fish. Vendors are friendly and often willing to explain their products.

4. Typical Costs

Beer Fish: ¥60–¥120 per dish, depending on the size of the fish and the restaurant.
Steamed Li River Fish: ¥80–¥150 per dish, depending on the type of fish.
Sour Fish Soup: ¥50–¥100 per pot, suitable for sharing.
Grilled Fish: ¥50–¥100 per fish, depending on the size and preparation.
Snail Dishes: ¥30–¥60 per plate.

Street food options and smaller eateries may offer these dishes at lower prices, while upscale restaurants may charge more.

5. Preparation Methods and Ingredients

Freshwater Fish: Carp, catfish, and mandarin fish are the most commonly used river fish in Guilin. They are prized for their tender flesh and mild flavor.
Cooking Techniques: Steaming, stir-frying, and grilling are the most common methods, as they preserve the natural flavors of the fish.
Seasonings: Local beer, pickled vegetables, ginger, garlic, chili, and soy sauce are frequently used to enhance the dishes.

6. Cultural and Practical Considerations

Seasonality: The best time to enjoy river fish is during the warmer months (spring and summer), when the fish are most abundant and flavorful.
Sustainability: While enjoying river fish, be mindful of overfishing concerns. Opt for restaurants that source their fish responsibly.
Language Barrier: Many smaller restaurants may not have English menus. It’s helpful to know the names of dishes in Chinese or use a translation app.
Allergies: If you have seafood allergies, communicate this clearly to the staff. Use the phrase “我对海鲜过敏” (Wǒ duì hǎixiān guòmǐn), meaning “I’m allergic to seafood.”

7. Enhancing Your Experience

Combine Dining with Scenery: Many restaurants in Yangshuo and along the Li River offer outdoor seating with breathtaking views of the karst mountains. Dining here is as much about the ambiance as the food.
Cooking Classes: Consider taking a cooking class in Yangshuo to learn how to prepare beer fish and other local dishes. This is a great way to immerse yourself in the local culture.
Pairing with Rice Wine: Local rice wine (米酒, Mǐjiǔ) pairs well with fish dishes and is worth trying.

By exploring Guilin’s seafood and river fish offerings, you’ll not only enjoy delicious meals but also gain a deeper appreciation for the region’s culinary heritage and natural beauty. Bon appétit, or as the locals say, “慢慢吃” (Mànmàn chī)—enjoy your meal!